To start shaving with a straight razor, you need four things: a 5/8 razor with a hollow-ground blade, a strop to refresh it before every shave, a shaving brush with shaving soap, and plenty of patience in the first few weeks. Begin with the easy areas (cheeks), with a well-sharpened blade, a low angle and no pressure at all. Safety comes down to three rules: taut skin, slow movements, and never any sideways movement of the blade.
Why switch to a straight razor?
The straight razor, or cut-throat razor, has been the barber's tool for over two centuries. It gives a very precise shave, produces almost no waste and, properly looked after, lasts a lifetime. It is also a ritual: building the lather, stropping the blade, taking your time. In return, it demands a learning curve. Allow several weeks before you feel at ease, and accept that your first shaves will be less clean than with your usual razor.
Choosing your first razor
Width: 5/8 to begin with
The width of a straight razor is expressed in eighths of an inch. The 5/8 is the most recommended size for beginners: wide enough to stay rigid, compact enough to get under the nose and around the chin. 6/8 and above suit dense beards and hands that are already practised.
The blade and the steel
A hollow-ground blade (hollowed out along its sides) is more flexible and more "singing": it gives good feedback on the quality of the cut. Carbon steel sharpens to a very fine edge but must be dried with care; stainless steel needs less vigilance with moisture. The great houses of Solingen, in Germany, remain benchmarks for a first razor: the Dovo 5/8 ebony or the Böker King Cutter 5/8 are two good starting points.
The alternative: the shavette
If you are hesitating, the shavette takes the shape of the straight razor but uses disposable half blades. No strop and no sharpening: it is a good way to learn the movement, as with the Dovo Shavette. Be careful, though: the disposable blade is often more aggressive than a properly stropped straight razor.
The strop and the paste: maintaining the edge
The strop is not for sharpening, but for realigning and polishing the edge before every shave. A Herold razor strop is enough to start with. The paste, such as the Puma polishing paste, is applied sparingly to the strop to revive an edge that is losing its bite.
How to strop the blade
- Pull the strop taut and flat: a slack strop rounds the edge.
- Lay the blade flat, with spine and edge in contact with the strop.
- Pull the blade spine first, never edge first.
- At the end of the stroke, turn the blade by rolling it over its spine, then go back the other way.
- Make around twenty slow passes back and forth, without pressing.
In time, the strop will no longer be enough: the blade will need to be reworked on a fine stone. This is a precise task. If you are not sure of yourself, ask for advice in the shop. The general principles of sharpening are set out in our guide to caring for and sharpening a knife.
Preparing the skin and the lather
Good preparation is half the shave. Shave after a hot shower or hold a warm towel on your face for a few minutes to soften the hair. Then build the lather in a shaving bowl with a damp brush, such as the Plisson Voyage shaving brush, and apply it in circular movements to lift the hairs. A dense, moist lather protects the skin and helps the blade glide.
The technique: safety above all
The grip
Open the razor so that the handle forms an open angle with the blade. Place your thumb under the heel, your index and middle fingers on the back of the tang, and your ring and little fingers on the handle. This grip gives you control without tension.
The golden rules
- Low angle: the blade should almost lie flat on the skin, around 30 degrees.
- Taut skin: with your free hand, always stretch the area being shaved.
- No pressure: it is the edge that cuts, not force.
- Never move sideways: the blade travels perpendicular to its edge.
- With the grain first: save shaving against the grain for later.
- Concentration: shave without rushing or distraction.
Progressing step by step
Start with the cheeks, which are flatter, and finish the rest with your usual razor. Add the neck, then the upper lip and chin over the weeks. A small nick is common at the beginning: rinse with cold water and press for a moment.
After the shave
Rinse the blade, dry it thoroughly, including around the pivot, then leave it to dry open before closing it. Rinse the brush and let it dry bristles down on a stand. The whole selection can be found in our Razors and Razor accessories collections.
Frequently asked questions
Is shaving with a straight razor dangerous?
The main risk is a minor cut. With a low angle, taut skin, no pressure and no sideways movement, it remains limited. Caution is needed above all when stropping.
What width of straight razor should I choose to start?
The 5/8 is the most versatile size for learning: it gets everywhere on the face while staying stable.
How often should the strop be used?
Before every shave. The paste is used occasionally, when the razor starts to pull.
Do I need a special soap?
A traditional shaving soap or cream, worked up with a brush, gives a more protective lather than aerosol foams.
How long does it take to master the technique?
Allow a few weeks of regular practice to feel at ease across the whole face. Progressing area by area helps a great deal.
Razors and knives are sold only to customers aged 18 and over.